Terminology
Unlock the world of jewellery with our guide to terminology within the industry.
Sometimes all the language within the gem and jewellery world can be confusing, especially if you’re trying to figure out what you’re wanting Sophie to design or look for. Here we break down some of the most used terminology to help make life as easy as possible! If you have any questions, do get in touch!
A
Alloy - A metal that is added to a base metal (gold, silver, platinum, palladium) to change the purity, strength and colour of the base metal.
Anatomy of a ring - The individual elements of a ring. See below.
Antique jewellery – Jewellery that is at least 100 years old or more.
Art Deco – jewellery from the 1920s and 1930s or a style inspired by this era, characterized by its bold, geometric designs, vibrant colours, and a fusion of various artistic influences.
Art Nouveau – A jewellery style that flourished in the late 19th century to the early 20th century (circa 1890 – 1910) and is celebrated for its flowing, organic designs and intricate craftsmanship.
B
Blemish – A clarity characteristic of a flaw, post or scratch on the surface of a gemstone.
Brightness - The impact of both the internal and external reflections of white light within the diamond.
Brilliant Cut – A cutting technique involves facets that are triangular or kite-shaped, extending from the centre towards the girdle in a radiating pattern.
C
Cabochon – A polished gem that is smoothly rounded with a domed upper surface and a flat or curved lower surface.
Carat - Carat weight is a unit of measurement used to describe the weight of gemstones and diamonds. One carat is the equivalent to 200 milligrams or 0.2 grams. There are 100 points in a carat, so 0.5 carat stone may be referred to as a 50-point stone.
Clarity - Clarity is one of the key factors used to evaluate and grade gemstones, particularly diamonds. It refers to the presence or absence of internal and external flaws, known as inclusions and blemishes, respectively.
Clasp – The fastening mechanism on a bracelet or necklace.
Cleavage - tendency of a gemstone to break along specific planes of weakness in its crystal structure.
Colour Change – The distinct change in colour of a gemstone under specific lighting.
Culet – A small facet or sharp point at the bottom of the pavilion of a finished gem.
D
Dealer – Wholesaler who sells gemstones within the trade.
Density – The weight of an object in relation to its size.
Dispersion - Dispersion in gemmology refers to the ability of a gemstone to split white light into its spectral colours, creating a rainbow-like effect known as fire.
E
Eye-clean – Inclusions within the gemstone are only visible under magnification and not to the naked eye.
F
Facet – A flat, polished surface on a finished gem that are deliberately cut and shaped by a gem cutter.
Fancy Shape – A gemstone shape that isn’t round.
Fashioning – A term used when referring to cutting and polishing gems.
Feather - A type of inclusion that appears as a crack or fracture within a gemstone. Feathers can affect the clarity, durability, and value of the gemstone, depending on their size, location, and visibility.
Findings – Small component parts of jewellery used to either make or repair pieces.
Fire – Flashes of colour visible in a polished diamond.
Fluorescence - The phenomenon where a diamond emits visible light when exposed to ultraviolet (UV) light, such as from sunlight or a black light. This emitted light usually appears as a blue glow, though it can also be other colours such as yellow, green, or white.
Fracture – A break in a gem other than cleavage or parting.
G
Girdle - The girdle on a gemstone is the narrow band around the widest part of the stone, separating the crown (the upper part) from the pavilion (the lower part). It plays a crucial role in the overall structure and appearance of the gemstone.
H
Hardness – How well a gemstone resists abrasions and scratches.
Hue – The basic colour of a gemstone, your first impression of a colour.
I
Inclusion - An inclusion in a gemstone refers to any material that is trapped inside the stone during its formation. Inclusions can be solid, liquid, or gaseous, and they are often considered to be the gemstone's "fingerprints" as they provide unique identifying features and can give valuable information about the gem's geological history and origin. It’s a clarity characteristic totally enclosed within it or extending into it from the surface.
Iridescence - When light passes through thin layers, it is separated into spectral hues, resulting in a rainbow effect.
M
Mandrel – A tapered, cylindrical metal instrument used to determine a ring’s size with markings down it.
Mixed cut – A cut that combines both brilliant and step cut styles.
P
Parting – A flat break in a gemstone that’s parallel to a twinning plane.
Pleochrism – The effect where a gemstone shows
R
Refraction - Refraction in gemstones refers to the bending of light as it passes from one medium to another with a different density. This phenomenon is fundamental to how gemstones interact with light, affecting their brilliance, sparkle, and overall appearance.
S
Saturation – The strength or intensity of a colour’s strength, ranging from a muted shade to a vibrant, pure hue.
Scintillation - Scintillation is the sparkle or flashes of light seen when the gemstone is moved. Refraction contributes to scintillation by creating multiple internal reflections within the gemstone.
Setting Styles – How stones are set and secured into the mount of a piece of jewellery.
Shank – The part of the ring that fits around the finger.
Step Cut - A style of cutting that feature long, narrow parallel facets arranged in a rectangular or square shape. This type of cut emphasizes the diamond's clarity and lustre rather than its brilliance and fire, creating a distinctive and elegant look.
T
Table – The large facet in the crown, parallel to the girdle. The flat section on top when looking face down at a cut gemstone.
Tone – The degree of darkness or lightness in a colour.
Toughness – How well a gemstone resists breaking and chipping.